Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Fashion Week: Chanel

Black and White COUTURE Swans...

Black Swan: Supermodel Stella Tennant opens Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Show in black and white Bouclé suit and skinny black pants

Chanel Haute Couture by Karl Lagerfeld: The Spring/Summer 2011 Collection was VERY Chanel; lots of the traditional Bouclé suits the Ladies Who Lunch LOVE. There was a 1960's "touch" in the square shapes and minis but "modernized" a bit in the styling. For example, Lagerfeld put skinny black pants under just about everything. Couture Leggings a la Chanel.

White over Black: NIKOLAKI Spring 2011 sequin paillete cowl-neck tunic/mini dress and capelet over silk ziberline skinny pants

It actually reminded me of my NIKOLAKI Spring 2011 Collection and this fabulous little number form our Look Book on Model Amanda Fields: So coincidental, and funny! Well, Karl, my NIKOLAKI design partner David Paul (it was his idea) and I ...um...think alike? Nevertheless, I love it!

Spiderweb Queen: White with black beading coat over black sequin skinny pants, Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011

Trends: Skinny black pants over EVERYTHING; 60's shapes, boxy shapes on top, fitted/skinny on bottom; white, light rose, blush, sequined details, sleeves for evening.

Themes: Black Swan/White Swan

Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Highlights:

Gossamer Sheath: Light Pink sheath dress with sleeves, Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011

Michelle Williams Oscar Choice Suggestion: Silver sequin gown with sleeves, Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011

Shapeless and Modern: Light pink silk iridescent organza and crystal sequined
sheath gown with raglan sleeves, Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011

Click below for the COMPLETE Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Show:

The McQueen of China: Designer Guo Pei's "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show

China Couture Dolls...

Where's my Damn Tea: A design from Guo Pei's "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show, Beijing

Recently, while doing my weekly (fashion) reading--I came across this Couture Gem, thanks to NY Times Fashion Critic and Writer Cathy Horyn: Last week, in the T Magazine Blog for NYTimes.com article "Year of the Couturière", she spotlighted Chinese Couturier Guo Pei.

Who is Guo Pei? Guo Pei has been designing Haute Couture in Beijing China, through her Atelier "Mei Gui Fang", or Rose Studio for over ten years. All the creations in Guo’s studio are made entirely by hand and they take hundreds or sometimes tens of thousands of hours, to create. When she began her Atelier, she had to teach her seamstresses in the French Art of Haute Couture in order to create her intricate creations. Her workers weren't used to the unusual pattern-making, draping and fabric manipulations which Guo Pei required. But from the looks of these gowns, I think they've learned!

Her works feature many factors of Chinese culture but, at the same time, still retain a Western elegance, directionality and sensibility that has garnered the obvious comparisons to the late Alexander McQueen as well as John Galliano.

Pei, also designed costumes for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, including the gown worn by singer Song Zuying (seen above) when she performed at the Closing Ceremonies with tenor Placido Domingo. The gown had 200,000 hand-encrusted Swarovski crystals! The designer has become quite the hit with all the A-List Chinese actresses like Zhang Ziyi, as well as all those girlfriends of the newly-minted multi-millionaires in that country who can afford her one-of-kind creations.

Carmen Empress: Model Carmen Dell'Orefice at the Guo Pei "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show, Beijing

Last November, she showed her Spring/Summer 2010 Haute Couture Collection entitled "Arabian One Thousand and Two Nights" where Guo Pei showcased 16 Works of Haute Couture Art. The entire show lasted 76 minutes (most fashion shows run just under 15 minutes). The ensembles were KRAZEEEE!!! She even flew out 78 year old SUPER SUPER Model, Carmen Dell'Orefice to model in her show, decked out like a Ming Empress from a Gay Man's Dream! Lord knows who payed for all of it. Not sure she's making enough of an income to mount such a multi-million dollar show--flying out Miss Dell'Orefice and having her walk in your show can set you back an easy $20,000 alone--but whoever is backing Guo Pei, please keep doing it!

No detail was left unnoticed--from the set, the hair, the make-up, the buffed "Boys-In-Waiting" to even the footwear, of course. These Platform Bootie Pumps (above) make Alexander McQueen's infamous "Armadillo Shoes look like kid-stuff!!

Lady Gaga Wet Dream: A Ball Gown from Guo Pei "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show, Beijing

In addition, when seeing the video below, all I kept thinking was: Lady Gaga. However, if you read HERE (and in the T Magazine article), it seems that Guo Pei could care less if the biggest star in the Universe wears her creations, or not. How do you say "Ouch!" and "Snap!" in Mandarin??? Well, enough of all that, let's just take a look at THAT UNBELIEVABLE show:

Watch the edited--but still AWESOME--Gui Pei Haute Couture "Arabian 1002TH Night" Fashion Show:

Also a great Behind The Scenes Video:

NY Fashion Week Spring 2011: Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera and Jason Wu-- Photos and Runway Video!

COLOR, Voluminous Shapes vs Fitted, Purples and Violets, Black & White, 70's Vibe, Prints and Korea???!!!

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Disco Girl

As we know, NY Fashion Week Spring 2011 occurred several weeks back--and from all accounts, the new venue at Lincoln Center got an A. I was invited to the Project Runway Season 8 Finale which was held at Lincoln Center but unfortunately, work called and I had to be in Miami to hosts Fashion's Night Out for Macy's...I've been busy traveling for those Macy's events as well as working on my own NIKOLAKI Spring 2011 Collection with my partner David Paul so I didn't get a chance to post some of my favorites and highlights from this last NY Fashion Week. I'll try and post more from Milan and Paris, of course, but for now here a few of my thoughts plus photos and video from NYFW.

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011:

It's all about the 1970s for Marc Jacobs Spring 2011. Imagine photos from 1976 Vogue Magazine with Iman (above), Anjelica Huston, Bianca Jagger, the Charlie Perfume ad...models with crimped hair, strong smokey eye and even stronger lipstick. All that's missing is the doorman at Studio 54!

It was VERY Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche too! Maybe the young Fashion School Kids of these days are too young too remember but I DO...

Le Pouf: Voluminous violet-colored dress with side pockets

Where's my Cointreau: Wide violet-colored pants, printed knit top, fabulous hat...very Sonia Rykiel...

Golden Girl: Gold kimono-sleeved jacket and micro shorts

Traveling to Vietnam First Class Ma'am: Red floor-length skirt suit with matching safari jacket

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Carolina Herrera Spring 2011:
Venezuelan-born American designer Carolina Herrera was inspired by the traditional clothing of Korea as well as botanical plates. Alright Carolina, you go there darling!

In the photos below you could see that inspiration translate into those top hats which are worn as part of Korean costume as well as obi-wrapped ties and bows--very Korean Airlines Flight Attendant Having Cocktails...As usual, she sent out her signature white shirts and blouses (which she always wears for her bow) as well as dresses and suiting perfect for her Park Avenue clientele.

Anybody for Kimchi Tonight: A Khaki sheath dress with floral applique, tucked-draping and that fabulous Korean-inspired hat

Wrap It Up: Chanel Iman models a shapeless & color-blocked (TWO Spring 2011 trends in one!) dress with an obi-tied accent

Where's The Ball: The Finale Gown in heavy ivory jacquard with black accents and of course, side pockets.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Jason Wu Spring 2011 Collection:
NY Wunderkid Designer--and Michelle Obama's fave--also went rather 70s with his Spring 2011 Collection. And just like Marc Jacobs, seemed to have rather overt nods to the Master, Yves Saint Laurent. Case in point: The see-though blouses, the perfectly tailored pleated pant suits and printed cocktail dresses straight from a "vintage" 1990 YSL Collection. I'm sure when those aforementioned blouses get to a Saks Fifth Avenue near you, they will probably be lined in silk habotai or come with a nice little silk camisole. If not: Ladies, you are on your own...

No Bra Required: White see-through tied blouse with full-pleated natural-waisted trousers

I Need a Virginia Slims: Above-the-knee printed silk ruffled dress

Ebony and Ivory: Black and white ensemble featuring a striped bustier and front cascade ruffled straight skirt.

Jason Wu Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Elie Saab and Valentino

Cowl Heaven...and Classique Couture Shapes...
Cowl Wrapped: Elie Saab Haute Couture F/W 2010/11

Lebanese-born, Red Carpet-favorite Elie Saab showed his Fall/Winter 2010/11 Haute Couture Collection. It was very HEAVY, both in its fabrications as well as dramatic draping. But to me, Heavy in a good way. There's no mistake: It's Fall kids.Deep red velvets, muted silver organza, dark camel silk crepes, degrade chiffon and lots of hand-beading rounded out the color and fabrications he offered this season to the "Ladies Who Live and Lunch In Kuwait" who love their Elie Saab Haute Couture. Shapes ranged from exaggerated pleated structures, cowl drapes galore, one-shoulder Grecian Goddess gowns and a play on asymmetry.Fashion writer Tim Blanks of Style.com was not amused by the collection. But, I have to say: I kind of liked it! Yes, some of those gowns looked as if the models were drowning in them (as Tim Gunn would say: That's A LOT of Gown!) but...I'm a big fan of cowl draping, the "Grecian Goddess" motif, and lots of drama (what part of Nick Verreos did you not understand!). And of course, if you have a couple $100,000 to spare and are getting married and thinking against the "traditional" white satin gown...Well, this gray-silver ball gown above might be what you might want to be ordering. Besides, Queen Rania of Jordan, the Multi-Millionaire Brides-to-be LOVE themselves some Elie Saab, as we know.

Click Below for Elie Saab F/W 2010/11 Haute Couture Runway Show Edited:


Valentino Haute Couture:
For Fall/Winter Haute Couture 2010/11, Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli (above) decided to go "Vintage Couture". It was very 60's in a way, with 21st Century design nuances. Think Jackie O.-meets-Jessica Alba (who was in the front row). It was as if one was going through a "Valentino Archive Book" from the 60s--which, in a way is what the designers are most likely doing. The runway show began very "cagey" (see above) and then went 60's Valentino Couture.This black mini cocktail dress above with "exploding" organza rose is SO Valentino , SO Couture and yet, still SO modern. Also, it is very editorial and you just know Vogue Italia and Steven Meisel will EAT IT UP! The defining shape of the collection was definitely the trapeze off-the-body/Baby Doll shape and... The timeless "drop-waist". The Valentino Haute Couture F/W 2010/11 Collection showed LOTS of these latter styles, with ruffled bottoms that were cut right at the 16" below-the-natural-waist mark, which looked both "vintage" yet new (even if they seemed two sizes too big).
In case you are shopping for that Little Black Dress, look no further than Valentino Haute Couture. This one above was one of my favorites. Imagine being at a party in Capri in this fur-trimmed little number?Of course, being the House of Valentino, the designers had to end with a "Valentino Red" showstopper, and this red silk Gazar gown just about did it for me. If I was one of those ladies in the front row (or ordering from my beachfront home in the Seychelles), I would definitely order this one! Also, note to my friend Miss Heidi Klum: This would look GORGEOUS at any upcoming red carpet awards show! I'll have to call her and let her know...after I show her MY collection :)

Click below for a video of the Finale of the Valentino Haute Couture F/W 2010 Runway:

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Chanel and Armani Prive

The Lion King...and (wait for it!) Old Hollywood is BACK!
Roar: The Giant Lion at Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010/11 Runway show

Karl Lagerfeld and Co. just showed the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010/11 Collection in Paris and from the looks of it, it was business as usual--in terms of it being a Fashion Spectacle. What a quilted leather bag and perfume can buy you kiddies! In this case: A HUGE fashion show! And A TON of Young Hollywood. Front Row: Vanity Fair Fashion and Style Director Michael Roberts , NY Times' Cathy Horyn, Allure Editor-in-Chief Linda Wells (great pumps!), Suzy Menkes and actress Leighton Meester

Instead of HUGE quilted Chanel No. 5 Bottles (like last Haute Couture F/W Fashion Week), Lagerfeld filled up the Grand Palais stage with an immense lion. No, not because he was inspired by Disney's "Beauty and The Beast" or "The Lion King", but it represented the Leo in Coco Chanel. The show even ended with a Lion-headed male model escorting his stunning Chanel Couture-clad beauty (above). In terms of fashion, it was all VERY Fall: Maroon, deep reds, camel, heavy tweeds, wools and fur. Real fur darling, it's COUTURE.
A lot of his looks played with varying proportions: Cropped 3/4 sleeved tweed jackets with blouson-long sleeved blouses and below-the-knee gored skirts. Very Couture Dowdy. Not sure how front-row attendee Leighton Meester would look wearing this above ensemble, but if she wants, she would totally end up on the FugGirls site in a hot minute!For evening, Lagerfeld showed No Gowns (gasp!), but instead, elegant lady-like full-skirted calf-length ensembles like this fire-red satin one above, as well as...Heavily beaded shift chemises with matching cropped jackets. Love those Couture Booties! The House of Chanel isn't necessarily known for the gowns. Look elsewhere for that all you multi-millionaire Debutantes.

Click Below for Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2010 Runway Edit Video:


Armani Prive:Copper Pleating: Armani Prive F/W 2010/11

Giorgio Armani has always been the go-to Designer for Hollywood. It's been a love affair since his "American Gigolo" days in the early 1980s if not before. In fact, it has been argued that he was the first "non-Hollywood" fashion designer to infiltrate the Awards Show Red Carpet. For this Haute Couture season , he payed homage to his love of "Old Hollywood" and he had PLENTY of gowns for those Couture clients missing something after leaving the no-Gown Chanel runway show. Kass Sequins: Supermodel Carmen Kass, Armani Prive Haute Couture F/W 2010/11

It was all about Lauren Bacall-meets-Carole Lombard with a little bit of Sharon Tate-esque hair thrown in. The colors reflected the intended season: Lots of camel, bronze and Winter Whites. Thick tweeds, duchesse satins and LOTS of crystals...As in sequined "Siren" gowns worthy of any "Jessica Rabbit" in the room...or a future Academy Award-nominated actress. I have a feeling we'll be seeing some of these gowns come next February. His gowns and suitings had interesting pleating detail as well as a continued interest in the shoulder as seen above and below:
Razor Sharp: The Armani Prive Shoulder

So, if you don't have an Academy Awards to attend and actually can pay for an original Armani Prive Haute Couture ensemble, you might want to go for this day-suit above. NO ONE, and I really mean NO ONE, will EVER question your authority in this. They better not. It's worth the price of a BMW!

Click Below For Armani Prive F/W 2010 Edit Runway Video: