The Super Shoulder at Nina Ricci Fall 2009/10Milan Fashion Week has come and gone and now, the world's press--and editors and fashion buyers alike--have moved onto the City of Lights, Paris. Two trends are making a standout this season: The Eighties and a Fierce Shoulder. It seems ironic that in such a dire economic situation that the world is under, the 80's--a time of prosperity and spend spend spend--would be a theme that designers would cling to. Lord knows the reason, but they have.
Frida Giannini for Gucci:
Slouched Skinny 80's at Gucci Fall 2009/10Case in point: Frida Giannini at Gucci. Her entire collection celebrated Tina Chow and the 80's style of ultra feminine, strong, who-cares-what's-going-on-in-the-economy power post-Disco girl. For Fall 2009/10 Gucci, pants are only available in two silhouettes: Super skinny or slouched-to-super skinny.
Club 80's at Gucci Fall 2009/10Strong 80's shoulder-pads and silk jersey one shoulder club dresses highlighted the collection. The message for Giannini was clear: The World economy is going to Hell and a Hen basket, but the Gucci girl is going clubbin'.
Dolce and Gabbana:
The Leg-o-Mutton Sleeve at Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2009/10For Fall 2009/10, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, based their collection on Elsa Schiaparelli with overt 30's and 40's references. Yet to me, it looked a lot more like an episode from Dynasty and an homage to Nolan Miller at times. Those oversized leg-o-mutton sleeves were out of control--and in a kind of campy, good way.
Marilyn Monroe Pouffed at Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2009/10They were the kind of sleeves in my old fashion school pattern book which my instructors would still somehow make us create. I remember back then, thinking to myself "Boy, these are some tacky sleeves and why do I have to make them?" Well, what was tacky then, is on-the-mark now. Time to dust off that pattern book and give myself a refresher course in oversized leg-o-mutton sleeves I guess!
Click below for the Dolce and Gabbana Fall 2009/10 Runway Show (in 2 parts):
Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci:
I Am Not In A Good Mood: The Nina Ricci Girl is ready to Fashion Kill!Marrying the two Fall 2009/10 trends of the 80's and Super Shoulders is the genius of Olivier Theyskens in his final collection for Nina Ricci. His swan song was hailed by editors, fashion press and buyers alike as one of his best. His woman was the Robert Palmer Girl--but for 2009/2010!
The Original Robert Palmer GirlHis collection seemed to be an ode to that Theyskens girl he created in his head who in one corner is ultra fashionable and chic, yet at the same time, can stomp you and whip you into shape if you speak to her the wrong way! I want to hang out with this woman...OK, I actually wanna BE THIS WOMAN!!! Besides strong Thierry Mugler-like jackets, super skinny skin-tight pants, 80's slicked back chignons, defined Shiseido-girl looking make-up, he also showed some of the most dangerous boots and shoes since Naomi Campbell fell in her Vivienne Westwood platforms.
Are you Kidding me? The Nina Ricci no-heel bootsTake a look at these boots with no heel--I can only imagine what the models' reactions were when they were handed these shoes and told to walk for their lives! I can see a Tyra "America's Next Top Model" episode comin' on...that or Ru Paul's "Drag Race"!
Click Below for a short video on his last collection for the House of Nina Ricci: